Behold: the skyline of Doha, Qatar. In the foreground, a traditional dhow plods the warm, shallow waters of the Arabian Gulf. 

Doha is a spanking new city; a smaller, quieter, more conservative version of its coastal neighbour, Dubai. It’s also perpetually under construction. Condo-style offices and residences rise up from the desert like weeds. 

There’s said to be a gritty South Asian neighbourhood here that’s relatively free of the plasticity and futurism shine that robs much of this town of charm. Off to investigate.